{"id":25645,"date":"2023-10-08T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-10-08T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/moowy.co.uk\/?p=25645"},"modified":"2025-01-06T14:28:18","modified_gmt":"2025-01-06T14:28:18","slug":"pruning-apple-trees","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/moowy.co.uk\/pruning-apple-trees\/","title":{"rendered":"Pruning Apple Trees \u2014 A Step-by-Step Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"
Apple trees are relatively fast-growing plants, and they can quickly grow out of control. And typically, the bigger the tree, the lower the quality of the fruit. However, it’s not really the size of the tree that dictates the fruit quality; it’s the age of the branches that bear them.<\/p>
So, pruning your apple tree contributes to the health and productivity of the tree because better fruit comes from new wood. Older branches may produce lots of fruit, but the quality will likely suffer. <\/p>
This article is all about how to get the best out of your apple tree through pruning. We’ll explain why and when you should be pruning apple trees and provide a step-by-step guide that even a novice can follow. <\/p>
Ready? Let’s go! <\/p>
Apple trees grow in a variety of ways, depending on the variety. But, typically, they grow with predominantly horizontal branches. <\/p>
However, you can differentiate between the varieties by the growth shape: half-stem, tall, column-shaped, pyramid-shaped, or shrub. <\/p>
So, before pruning your apple tree, determine which variety you have because it dictates the shape you should aim for when cutting it back. <\/p>
Many apple tree varieties thrive in the UK, which is why we produce some of the best ciders in the world. Apple trees thrive in our temperate climate, most producing fruit regardless of the quality of the seasons. <\/p>
The top five apple varieties in the UK (according to fruit tree grower Chris Bowers<\/a>) are:<\/p> Pruning is the act of cutting off old wood from a plant, keeping the branches young and maintaining the plant’s virility. So, by establishing a regular pruning regime, you’ll keep your tree healthy, fruitful, and the right size and shape for your garden. <\/p> Trees that get too large are likely to over-produce, making the whole crop poor quality and susceptible to disease. So, thinning out the crop early in the season prevents branches from snapping or bending under the ripe fruit’s weight and ensures delicious large fruit come harvest time. <\/p> Finally, removing the dead wood from the plant helps improve air circulation around the foliage, preventing disease. Remove inward-growing branches that rub against each other, permittingh sunlight to penetrate into the plant \u2014 essential for ripening and keeping the tree healthy. <\/p> For most effective cropping, maintain a tree with a single distinct trunk, with branches that grow at a 45-degree angle. So, when pruning young trees, maintain a single trunk with no more than five side branches.<\/p> Avoid too many side shoots from each branch when the plant is young to maintain the single trunk \u2014 this way, the plant can distribute its energy evenly for better cropping.<\/p> Avoid pruning your apple tree during wet weather and frost \u2014 if the cuts remain wet for too long, they become prone to fungal diseases. Severe frost will hinder a plant\u2019s recovery after pruning. <\/p> The best time to prune an apple tree depends on its variety and age. However, in general, prune in late winter (avoiding frost) or early spring (before blossoming), between November and early March. <\/p> This is the resting period for the tree, and pruning during its dormancy promotes healthy stimulation come spring. Prune before new leaf growth \u2014 this also ensures you can see the general shape of the tree. <\/p> However:<\/p> It’s better to prune a young tree in late summer or early autumn once the active growing period is over. This helps the tree settle and prepare for winter. Developing a regular pruning regime in the first three or four years of an apple tree’s life is essential to help it formulate robust roots.<\/p> You can cut an older tree back more than a younger tree \u2014 an older tree may even require a summer pruning to maintain the plant’s shape and prevent it from over-producing. <\/p> Winter pruning takes place between November and early March. This is the time to cut away old, thick branches, introducing a better shape to the dormant tree. <\/p> It\u2019s important to differentiate between flower and leaf buds. Leave flower buds intact and remove leaf buds. If you\u2019re unsure which is which, wait until spring \u2014 flower buds go green before they burst into bloom. <\/p> While the principal pruning window is during the tree’s winter dormancy, you can prune a trained apple tree in summer just to tidy up stray branches. <\/p> The best time for summer pruning is mid-to-late August. Look for twiggy branches that spout upwards \u2014 these are sometimes called “water shoots” and often occur due to a particularly heavy winter pruning. <\/p> These twiggy water shoots grow vigorously but don’t produce blossoms and can easily cause overcrowding. So, these should be your target \u2014 they drain the tree of the energy it could use to produce its fruit.<\/p> As mentioned, remove thick, overgrown branches during the winter pruning. Summer pruning is about removing those energy-sapping water shoots. <\/p> If you\u2019re unsure which branches to remove, err on the side of caution. It\u2019s better to prune a little than not at all, but it\u2019s quite easy to prune back too hard.<\/p> You\u2019ll develop confidence with practice. Here are some tips in the meantime:<\/p> This hard pruning method removes old, weak, or diseased wood. Remember, fruit grows on new wood, so you want to keep the tree’s branches young and vibrant, and you do this by removing the dead wood. <\/p> So, if you haven’t pruned for a while or if this is the first time, look for brittle, dried wood and remove it. Cut it back to the nearest side shoot to the stem. New wood feels smoother and hydrated, while old wood feels rough and dry. <\/p> Rejuvenation pruning can help increase the tree\u2019s yield the following year and improve the structure of the tree. <\/p> However, avoid cutting back more than 20% of the tree’s overall mass \u2014 it will affect fruit production the following year. <\/p> As the name suggests, maintenance pruning helps maintain the health and shape of the tree and is part of the regular pruning regime. <\/p> Again, remove old and diseased wood, and use this cut to maintain the tree’s shape and appearance. <\/p> This is where you train the tree into a spherical or cone-shaped structure \u2014 merely for aesthetics. Alternatively, you can \u201cshape prune\u201d a large tree to keep it smaller. <\/p> Always cut an apple branch either:<\/p> Never cut halfway between side shoots, leaving a stub \u2014 this will rot and promote disease. <\/p> Focus on keeping the middle of the tree\u2019s branches clear \u2014 cut back branches that rub against each other. <\/p> Cut a maximum of 20% of the tree\u2019s unpruned mass<\/strong> \u2014 if you cut back more, it will put its energy back into growth rather than producing fruit. <\/p> Here\u2019s a complete guide to pruning apple trees:<\/p> Always have the right tools. Here\u2019s a list:<\/p> Not sure which pruning tools to buy? Check out our expert’s guide to choosing the right pruning tools<\/a>. <\/p> After pruning, your tree may need some love and attention to help it bounce back. Here are our top aftercare tips:<\/p> The best time to prune an established apple tree is during its dormancy, from November to March. However, avoid pruning when the weather’s wet or frosty, as this can leave the cuts susceptible to disease. Prune on a crisp, dry day when there’s no scheduled rain.\u00a0<\/p> <\/div> Most apple trees prefer a winter pruning, although it depends on the variety. If pruning in summer, focus on the \u201cwater shoots\u201d \u2014 twiggy branches that grow upward. Cut these back as they don\u2019t produce fruit and drain the tree of energy.\u00a0<\/p> <\/div> The general rule for apple tree pruning is never to cut more than 20% of the tree’s overall pre-pruned mass. Over-pruning can result in twigginess and a poor fruit yield.\u00a0<\/p> <\/div> <\/div> I hope I\u2019ve answered all your questions about pruning apple trees, but if you have questions, don\u2019t hesitate to get in touch<\/a>.<\/p>Why should you prune your apple tree?<\/h2>
How to prune an apple tree<\/h2>
When to prune an apple tree<\/h2>
Pruning apple trees in winter<\/h2>
Pruning apple trees in summer<\/h2>
Which branches do I prune on an apple tree?<\/h2>
Rejuvenation pruning<\/h2>
Maintenance pruning<\/h3>
Shape pruning<\/h3>
Where do I make the cut?<\/h2>
How to prune an apple tree: a step-by-step plan<\/h2>
Which tools do I need when pruning apple trees?<\/h2>
Apple tree pruning aftercare<\/h2>
FAQs<\/h2>
Any questions?<\/h4>