How to Master Tree Pollarding: A Practical Guide

In a way, pollarding is just another word for pruning. This technique is ages old and encourages new shoots and creates a denser, stronger canopy. Aside from the obvious aesthetic benefits, this method helps create and maintain wind protection in your garden. By removing tall branches, you might get more sunlight through. 

From London planes to common limes, numerous tree species thrive under this pruning regime. We’ll guide you through everything you need to know about pollarding, from selecting the right trees to mastering the cutting techniques that will keep your garden looking its best.

What is tree pollarding?

The term “pollarding” originates from the word “poll,” which historically described the top of the head. This pruning technique involves methodically removing the upper branches of a tree to encourage a dense head of foliage and new branch growth—essentially giving the tree a haircut.

Key benefits for garden trees

Pollarding has numerous advantages, including:

• Size control 
• Less shade throwing 
• Health improvement 
• Safety enhancement 
• Extended lifespan
• Fuller canopy

Pollarding vs. topping

Despite superficial similarities, pollarding differs from topping. Primarily, pollarding begins when trees are young and follows a regular maintenance schedule, whereas topping typically occurs when mature trees become problematically large.

Moreover, pollarded trees develop characteristic “knuckles” or “pollard heads” at cutting points—swollen areas that form over years of regular pruning. These knuckles act as natural termination points for branches and serve as the source for each year’s new growth.

To achieve this, pollarding cuts are made carefully at the branch collar, neither leaving stubs nor cutting into the knuckle. Therefore, pollarding enhances tree health when done properly. Topping is more about managing size.

Pollarding vs. coppicing

Coppicing is also different from pollarding. It involves cutting trees down to ground level, encouraging multiple stems to grow from the stump. This technique is typically used in woodland management for timber or biomass production. While pollarding maintains a tree’s height and shape, coppicing allows for rapid regrowth and harvesting cycles. Both methods promote tree longevity and can increase biodiversity by creating varied habitats for wildlife.

Trees that benefit from pollarding

Trees that produce new foliage quickly and can produce water shoots are generally suitable for pollarding. Tolerance to stress is also a characteristic pollarding trees share. Willows, for example, are among the best candidates for pollarding.

Evergreen options for year-round structure

Though less commonly pollarded than deciduous varieties, certain evergreens respond positively to this technique:

• Holly (Ilex spp.)
• Yew (Taxus spp.) 
• Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis) 
• Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus gunnii)

Trees to avoid pollarding

Not all trees tolerate pollarding well. Avoid this technique with:

• Older, established trees. Pollarding these can trigger disease or decay, potentially leading to tree loss
• Trees with weaker wood prone to producing multiple shoots, like poplar (Populus) and some willow (Salix) varieties, as they can become hazardous over time
• Species that don’t produce epicormic growth naturally

How to pollard a tree: step-by-step guide

Initially, allow your young tree to grow until it reaches the desired height—typically maintaining the pollard at least 6 feet (1.83 m) above ground for safety. The optimal time for pollarding is late winter or early spring, when the tree is dormant and doesn’t show any signs of leave growth. Notably, avoid autumn pruning, as decay fungi may enter cuts during this period. Except for Acer species. They should not be pollarded in spring due to potential sap bleeding.

Aftercare for newly pollarded trees

Subsequently, monitor your tree for new growth. An abundance of shoots will emerge—thin out overcrowded stems, removing unhealthy ones first, followed by any crossing branches. Furthermore, promptly remove any shoots growing from the trunk below the pollarded head by snapping them off rather than cutting. 

Maintaining pollarded trees through the seasons

Let’s start in winter and follow the natural cycle. 

Winter maintenance tasks

Winter presents the ideal window for primary pollarding work and most trees. January to March is the optimum period for cutting back branches, as trees are dormant with energy stored in their root systems. There are other benefits as well.

• Trees contain lower sap levels, reducing stress and bleeding
• The risk of fungal infections significantly decreases in cold weather
• The tree’s structure is more visible after leaf drop, making structural assessment easier
• Healing begins before spring growth, giving wounds time to closePlease note that Acer trees are the exception here. Their ideal pruning time is in late autumn.

Spring growth management

As temperatures rise, your pollarded tree responds with vigorous new growth. Upon this flush of activity, I recommend:

• Removing the weakest shoots first
• Eliminating any unhealthy-looking branches
• Taking out crossing branches that might rub and create wounds
• Thinning overcrowded areas for better airflow

Importantly, snap off (don’t cut) any shoots growing from the trunk below the pollarded head as soon as they appear. Cutting often encourages even more unwanted shoots to develop.

Summer care considerations

Summer brings different challenges. The focus lies on the following tasks.

• Ensuring adequate hydration, particularly during dry spells
• Applying balanced fertiliser if soil appears nutrient-poor
• Monitoring for pests and diseases which thrive in warmer conditions

Interestingly, some species actually benefit from summer pollarding—walnuts and certain fruit trees typically produce more fruit when pollarded during this season, including peach trees, nectarine trees, Japanese Plum trees, apple trees, pear trees.

Autumn preparation

Autumn is generally the least favourable time for pollarding, as decay fungi may enter pruning cuts. However, preparation remains important:

• Assess tree structure for potential winter storm damage
• Consider applying phosphorus and potassium-rich fertiliser (avoiding nitrogen) to support root development
• Complete any minor necessary pruning by late October, giving time for healing before frostOnly Acer trees prefer pollarding in autumn. 

FAQ about pollarding

 Is it pollarding time yet?

Success with pollarding depends largely on choosing appropriate tree species and pollarding them at the right time. Most deciduous trees respond well when pollarded correctly. Regular maintenance during each season ensures healthy growth patterns and sturdy structure development.

Remember that pollarding works best as a long-term commitment rather than a one-time solution. Starting with young trees and following proper cutting techniques creates strong pollard heads that will serve your garden well for years. Armed with this knowledge, you can confidently shape your garden trees while preserving their health and vitality.

If you want to learn more about certain trees that benefit from pollarding, read out articles about Acer palmatatum, plum trees or catalpas.

Any questions left? Please leave a comment and ask away!

Happy pollarding!

Louis Hooft

Founder & Lawn expert

Introducing Louis Hooft, the founder of MOOWY and your reliable expert. With a profound love for stunning lawns and extensive experience in garden maintenance, Louis is here to assist garden enthusiasts in achieving a greener and livelier outdoors than ever before. Count on Louis for invaluable tips, clever tricks, and top-notch products to make your garden flourish!